#324: Regensburg (pg 159; 2nd Ed pg 144)

 

Dec. 10, 2022

Regensburg was the capital of the Bavarian region prior to Munich and is known as one of the most beautiful medieval cities in all of Germany.  

The city's architecture is all original as it was fortunately not destroyed during the air raids of WWII.  

Dom St. Peter

We were sad it was under construction when we saw it until we overheard a tour guide explaining to his group that it's always under construction.  It houses what is likely the only extant statue of the Devil's grandmother and is the premier example of the Gothic in Germany. 

A sampling of the town's Christmas markets.

This was the only town we went to that actually had an entrance fee for one of its markets.  It isn't shown here.  It's called the "Romantic Christmas Market" and it is located in the Royal Gardens.  The reason why it isn't shown here is because we attempted to go to it, but it was 12 euros/person to get in and was cash only! And we were just a little bit short.  Why you would make something that was that expensive (think if you're going as a family of 4 or 5 people) cash only is beyond me, but alas, it was what it was.  I was actually very surprised at how much of Germany was "cash only."  I was just in Italy a couple months ago and I don't think I used more than 20 or 30 euros in cash the entire time I was there.  I just charged everything with no problem.  But Germany.... it's a whole other ballgame.  Parking garage with a 30 euro fee - cash only.  Tips on your dinner bill - cash only.  Absolutely every single item at every single Christmas market - cash only.

Wiener Schnitzel at the Hofbrauhaus 

Prost!

Verdict: Regensburg was a lot bigger than I expected and a lot more crowded.  We found a parking spot, then realized it was more than a 30 minute walk to the town center, so we stupidly decided to get back in our car and try to get closer.  AN HOUR later (because of really bad traffic and the fact that every parking garage was full) we FINALLY found another spot that wasn't even all that much closer.  I was kind of hungry and irritated by that point which put a sour taste for Regensburg in my mouth.  But the town was actually delightful.  I loved all the pedestrian walkways, Christmas shops and restaurants on the Danube.  It was very "German" meaning tourists seemed far and few between.  Everyone around us was speaking German.  Our server at the Hofbrauhaus didn't know a lick of English, the people we sat next to were locals, etc.  Just as I was thinking to myself "I'm glad we made it here and I had a good time after we finally found a parking spot and got some food in my belly, but I'm not sure I need to come back.  I'm not sure this is really a "must do", my husband piped up, "I love this town!  I want to come back here again and explore it more and spend more time here."  So there you have it.  While I'm not sure you have to experience Regensburg before you die, it probably is worth putting a "European river cruise" on your bucket list.  And you may as well look for one that has Regensburg as one of its ports!

#323: Germany's Beer Culture (2nd Ed. pg 141)

 

Munich's Hofbrauhaus is the most famous beer hall in the world.  

The original brewery was built here in 1583.  It was smaller than.  In 1880, the original brewery moved out and this one, that can seat up to 5,000 people, replaced it.  It was bombed during WWII and, true to German form and priorities, it was one of the very first places to be rebuilt!

Let's check it out...

Heart-shaped gingerbread cookies for sale.

People sitting at picnic table style tables with family style type seating.  If you can find a spot, grab it. German musicians add to the festive vibe.

While the beer is constantly flowing and served in liter-sized mugs.

Every German town seems to have one, although not nearly to the magnitude of the one in Munich.  We had a delicious Wiener Schnitzel and Spatze at this one in Regensburg.  

Verdict:  Well, I'm not a beer drinker.  Or a drinker period, so for me personally, this is a No.  Having said that, if you are a beer connoisseur, then this is your Mecca and you need to take the pilgrimage.  Further, even if you aren't a beer drinker, if you find yourself in Germany (and I really hope you do someday), then stopping in a Hofbrauhaus should absolutely be on your list and it's definitely part of the German experience!

#322: Deutsches Museum (pg 156; 2nd Ed pg143)

 

Dec. 11, 2022

A view of the Deutsches Museum from the bridge.

Let's go inside!

The health/nutrition/Ag section - I'm right at home here!

Space exploration

Ever wondered what a dissected airplane looks like?  Now you know!

Verdict:  It's a cool museum.  Lots of hands on exhibits.  It's HUGE.  But no, it's not something you need to do before you die.  It reminded me a lot of Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry.  It's cool, but not a "must do."  

Cost:  15 euros/adult

#321: Christkindlmarkt (pg 155; 2nd Ed pg 140)

 

I arrived in Munich on Dec. 8th and spent the next four days going to as many Christkindlmarkts as possible!

We also happened to be there during the Krampus parade which was super fun!

Baumstriezel.... is it worth the wait?

It most definitely is!

So was this!

We purchased this in the Medieval Christmas Market in Munich.  It was so fun that some towns had multiple markets in the various town squares and some of them had different themes.

More from the Medieval market.

The entrance to the Medieval market.  They had great music, great food and everything was themed accordingly.

Each market had various places to buy hot beverages (various mulled spiced drinks, hot wine, hot chocolate, teas, etc) and they sold them in these mugs that were uniquely designed for that specific market.  They charged you the price of the drink plus an extra 3 euros for the mug. If you decide to keep the mug, it's yours!  If you decide not to, you simply turn it back in when you're done with your beverage and they give you back 3 euros. They then wash and re-use the mug.  No litter, no trash and fun little collectibles for those that want to keep (which we did - we collected five and then filled them with fun German candies and presented them as souvenir gifts to our kids when we got home).

Another day, another Christmas market!  This one was in Nuremberg, where history marks as the birthplace of Christkindlmarkt.  Fittingly, it has one of the biggest and best!

Nurnberg also had a great Children's Christmas market.

Each stall had these really fun decorated canopy tops.

And there was glow-in-the dark cotton candy!

And little places to do make-your-own gingerbread.

See all those people behind me?  Most of them are locals.  It was rare to hear English.  We spoke to several locals who said that, due to Covid canceling the 2020 and 2021 markets, this is the first time they've been able to experience this fun annual tradition in three years, so they were all chomping at the bit to get out and enjoy the festive Christmas season and these markets that make their towns come alive, especially at night.

These little nut/dried date figures are a Christmas market staple.  So we of course had to get one!

Christmas market memories with my travel partner. 

Bavaria is famous for its Gingerbread!

So much yummy, hot hand-held foods to try.

We loved this life-size German Nativity!

German sausage smothered in mustard and sauerkraut.  Yummy in my tummy!

It was dreamy.

Verdict:  We were in Germany from Dec. 8-12, 2022 and went to several Christmas markets in four different towns/cities:  Munich, Nuremberg, Bamberg and Regensburg.  You don't necessarily need to go to all the markets in all the towns, but YES, you definitely need to experience Christkindlmarkt in Germany (preferably Bavaria) at some point in your life.  It feels like you are living on a Hallmark movie set or a part of a 3D Thomas Kinkaid Christmas card.  It's festive and fun and a totally unique experience.  My favorites were in Munich and Nuremberg.  

#320: Bamberg (pg 152; 2nd Ed pg 139)

A view from the outside.

 

Dec. 10, 2022

Bamberg is known as "one of the most beautiful small towns in all of Europe."  

Fittingly, we were greeted with a storefront that was turned into a life-size advent calendar!

Another Christmas market?  Yes, please!

Bamberg has more than 2000 well-presevered buildings and is a beautiful, unique place to explore - even in the cold!

The Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) is one of Europe's most photographed and occupies its own little island in teh middle of the Regnitz River.

It was built ~1467.  Anwar Johann painted the murals on the exterior walls.

Exploring the winding cobbled streets and neighborhoods. 

It's a very walkable city.  We drove here from Nuremberg, parked our car in a paid parking garage at a hotel and then wandered the town by foot.  It was easy to see all the town's major highlights by walking around, including this one - the four-towered Kaiserdom cathedral, built under Heinrich II and the site of his coronation in 1012. 

It is the only place outside of Italy or France where a Pope is buried.

Now that's a nativity!! It was huge!

A view from the outside.

Colorful and charming and just so authentically German.

Verdict: No, you don't need to see Bamberg before you die.  I have nothing bad to say about it.  It truly was charming.  We very much enjoyed exploring the town and especially enjoyed seeing the Kaiserdom Cathedral and Altes Rathaus.  I do think you need to go to Germany before you die and I do think you need to explore various towns there, big and small, it just doesn't necessarily need to be this one.