#299: Positano's Hotels (pg 186)

 

Verdict: I am not sure why "Positano's Hotels" are in the book instead of just "Positano."  The 2nd Edition eliminated this entry completely and doesn't even give Positano its own entry, but rather groups it with the Amalfi Coast.  And that's probably a good move.  We spent all day here.  We walked up and down both beaches, we ate here, we shopped here, we looked at the hotels.  We watched the sunset.  We fully experienced Positano and the town itself is an absolute "must do" before you die.  But the hotels themselves are not must dos.  Peak in them and see their charm if you want like we did, but it's okay if you stay at a B and B down the road in Sorrento or Amalfi. 

#298: The Amalfi Coast (pg 185); 2nd Ed, pg 175

 

First stop after leaving Salerno:  Ravello

We went to visit the gardens of Villa Cimbrone.

As the 1000 Places to See book states, Ravello has been described as "closer to heaven than to the sea."  I couldn't agree more.

I challenge you to find a more breathtakingly beautiful spot than this.

From Ravello, we found a parking garage carved into the mountain.  If you go out the path one way from the garage.....

You are in Atrani!

And if you go out the other way, you are in Amalfi!

I loved all these lemon-themed shops.

The Duomo di Sant'Andrea.

Then from there, we went to Positano.

Hello, Positano!

The pathway down to the beach.

Looking up into the town from the beach.

I am told that in this summer, you can hardly find a place to sit.  It is wall to wall people everywhere. But in November..... we had the whole place to ourselves!

Thumbs up for that!

If you're not already in love before you come here, you will fall in love before you leave!

Lunch time!

Chez Black was recommended to us by a friend who has spent a lot of time here.  It is situated right on the beach.  The food was delicious!!

And, for the record, the best pizza diavalo we had anywhere of the entire trip was at this restaurant.  You can skip the grilled vegetables, but everything else on this menu was amazing!!

Sunset in Positano on the Amalfi coast?  Yes, please!! 

Verdict: Yes, yes, yes, YES!  If you only do 100 things before you die (instead of 1000), make this one of them!  It is an absolutely breathtakingly beautiful stretch of water-front beauty surrounded by cliffside towns where one is more charming than the next.

There are many ways this can be experienced.  We chose to rent a car and start in the South (Salerno) and then work our way up making stops in Ravello, Atrani, Amalfi and Positano and then ending in Sorrento on the Northern end of the Amalfi coast.  You may choose to take a tram.  You may choose to stay in one of these towns as your home base and just make day trips every day.  You may choose to take ferries or other boats.  However you choose to experience this piece of the world is fine, just make sure to do it!

#297: Pompeii (pg 184); Naples's Antiquities (2nd Ed, pg 179)

 

Nov. 16, 2021

Pompeii!

In AD 79, Mt Vesuvius unexpectedly erupted and stopped this city of 20,000 in its tracks.  Approximately 2000 people (10% of the city's population) was instantly killed and the entire city was buried under hot ash and lava.  When it was eventually uncovered, it was almost completely in tact giving archaeologists and all of us a pretty amazing and accurate view of what Roman life was like 2000 years ago.

The main public square.

The theatre.  This is where concerts and other forms of non-violent entertainment would be held.

But when they were in the mood for some gore, they'd head over here to see gladiators fight to the death.

It was sobering to see figures like this - seeing the positions they were in as they were trapped and killed by the spewings of Mt. Vesuvius.

You can still see the ridges in the "road" from the carriages.

Some of the many pots, jugs and artifacts that were unearthed.

Pompeii's streets were washed with running water on a regular basis.  These stepping stones were put into place so that pedestrians could still cross the streets even with gushing water coming down.  They are separated so that carriages could still pass through.  We know from the spacing of the stones that carriages had standard axels. This was a 2- way street or "main thoroughfare." 

While many people go to the more famous Pompeii, it's absolutely worth it to go to the nearby, smaller Herculaneum as well.  It is remarkably intact, not as crowded and very well preserved.

And the remains of those trying to escape to their boats on that fateful day are still there.

VERDICT: Yes!!  This was all amazing.  I'd read about it in history books, but to see it all with my own eyes in person was so much more meaningful.  

Cost:  Pompeii: 19 euros.  It will cost more if you want an audio guide (35 euros) or guided tour (44 euros).  We just paid the 19 euros and listened to  Rick Steve's podcast, which was very helpful.  Herculaneum is 16.5 euros for adults.  Children 17 and under are free.